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The growth and development of the Animal Husbandry Rabbits make wonderful, intelligent, friendly and quiet house pets From category Bird, Rabbit Below : Product Details : Rabbits make wonderful, intelligent, friendly and quiet house petsMidwest Bird & Exotic
Animal Hospital
1923 So. Mannheim Road
Westchester, Illinois 60154
(708) 344-8166
Rabbits make wonderful, intelligent, friendly and quiet house
pets. The average life span for a bunny is 7 years with records being
reported up to 15 years of age. The following information is designed
to help you take the best care of your pet and enjoy a happy, healthy
life with him or her.
DIET
*Rabbit Pellets* - A good quality pellet should be offered daily
but in limited quanitites. The UNCONTROLLED feeding of a pellet diet
can lead to obesity with concurrent heart and liver disease, chronic
diarrhea, and kidney disease from the high calcium levels in some
pellets. Make sure that you buy pellets high in fiber (18% or more),
and that you buy small quantities and keep it refrigerated or cool and
dry to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets can contribute to a
rabbit that stops eating. If you must buy more than two months of
pellets at a time, freeze them. The following chart show DAILY AMOUNTS
to be fed to your bunny. DO NOT REFILL THE BOWL EVEN IF THE PELLETS
ARE ALL EATEN BEFORE THE NEXT DAY.
2-4 lb of body weight -- 1/4 cup daily
5-7 lb of body weight -- 1/2 cup daily
8-10 lb of body weight -- 3/4 cup daily
11-15 lb of body weight -- 1 cup daily
(House Rabbit Society Note: The above amounts refer to adult rabbits
only. Young rabbits can be given as much as they want up to about 6
months. After that, slowly reduced the amount of pellets until you
reach the above suggested amount.)
*Loose Timothy Hay* - TIMOTHY HAY OR GRASS HAY SHOULD BE OFFERED
DAILY IN UNLIMITED AMOUNTS. We prefer the loose, long strands of hay,
as opposed to the pressed cubes. The fiber in the hay is extremely
important in promoting normal digestion and for the prevention of
hairballs. These products also contain protiens and other nutrients
essential to the good health of your pet. We no longer recommend the
use of alfalfa hay, as it has been shown to be too high in calcium and
carbohydrates which may lead to serious health problems and digestive
upsets. (HRS Note: Oat hay may also be given as it is low in
calcium.) (Uploader's note: Timothy is unavailable in the western
portion of the United States; in this case, substitute alfalfa and
watch for signs of high calcium -- crystals in the urine or milky
urine.)
*Fresh and "Treat" Foods* - These foods should be given in limited
quantities, as excessive amounts may lead to digestive upsets. Feed
more than one treat food a day to get the pet used to variety so that
if changes have to be made, they are tolerated more easily. ANY MAJOR
CHANGE IN THE TYPES OF FOOD FED TO YOUR PET CAN LEAD TO SERIOUS
DIGESTIVE UPSETS. Once you establish your pet's routine, please be
consistent. Follow these guidelines:
DAILY. Give your pet a combination of at least 3 of the following, in
the same volume as the pellets given (i.e. a 2-4 lb rabbit would get a
TOTAL of 1/4 of COMBINED greens, NOT 1/4 of each type): carrot tops,
beet tops, dandelion greens (make sure they are pesticide free),
carrot, alfalfa sprouts, clover sprouts or parsley (plain, not fancy
curly leaf types).
RARELY. We don't recommend starting these treats; this is primarily
for the pet that is "hooked" on these items. Banana (fattening), dried
fruit, crackers, nuts (fattening), and nonsugary breakfast cereals.
NEVER. Never give your rabbit salty or sugary snacks or chocolate.
These items can lead to a variety of disease problems.
*Water* - This should be always available, and changed daily. A
dirty water container can breed bacteria that cause disease. The
containter can be either a water bottle of heavy bowl that is weighted
or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over. Do
not use medications or vitamins in the water, as your pet may not drink
if the color or taste is altered.
*Vitamins* - These are not felt to be necesary if the rabbit is
getting pellets in the diet. In fact, the indiscriminate use of
vitamins may lead to overdosage and serious disease.
*Salt or Mineral Block* - Not necessary for the house pet on the
described diet. You may want to have one available for those animals
kept outdoors in warm climates and for breeding animals.
*Papaya Enzyme Tablets* - We have found that the use of flavored,
chewable papaya or papaya/pineapple enzyme tablets have been very
useful in the prevention of hairballs in rabbits. These tablets
contain digestive enzymes that help to bread down the hair in the
stomach and help it to pass on through the digestive tract. We give
these daily at 1 tablet per 5 lbs of body weight. The first time you
present them to your bunny, you may need to push the tablet into your
pet's mouth to give him or her a taste. After one or two times, your
pet should eat the tablets out of your hand or out of the food dish.
These tablets are readily available at any human health food store. An
alternative to the tablets is the use of fresh pineapple or papaya
chunks fed to your rabbit at least 2 times weekly. Some rabbits will
eat these fruits readily, and should be fed 1 tablespoon of fruit per 5
lb body weight. Do not use canned products, as the canning process
destroys the enzyme in the fruit. (HRS Note: we have found that
Prozyme, a multiple enzyme product, is even more effective in
preventing hairballs or enteritis. It is great for bunnies with
sensitive digestive systems or for bunnies that are molting, etc. If
you are using Prozyme, it can completely replace the papaya enzyme.)
*Night Feces* - It may seem strange to list this as part of the
diet, but these "special droppings" are an essential part of your pet's
nutrition. During certain times of the day, usually in the evening,
you my observe your pet licking the anal area and actually eating some
of the droppings in the process. These cecal pellets, as they are
called, are softer and greener than the normal hard, round waste
droppings. Your pet knows when these droppings are being produced and
will take care of eating them himself. These cecal pellets come from
the cecum, which is part of the digestive system where fermentation of
food takes place, and they are rich in vitamins and nutrients which are
needed by your pet to maintain good health. After eating these "vitamin
pellets" he will redigest the material and extract all the necessary
elements. This habit may appear distasteful to use but it is normal
and important for your pet. Occasionally a rabbit will drop these cecal
pellets along with the waste pellets instead of eating them. They will
be soft but formed, and they will have an odor. This is not considered
diarrhea, and if it only occurs occasionally, it is not considered a
disease problem.
ENVIRONMENT
*Cage* - A metal cage may be used with a wire flooring of
approximately 14 gauge wire (1" x 1/2" square openings). A solid
floored area is necessary to prevent sore hocks and to provide an area
for resting. One can use a towel (unless you have a pet that likes to
eat towels) or pieces of carpeting or wood for the solid area. Corn
cob or newspaper can be used under the wire. Do not use aquariums or
solid walled cages as the lack of sufficient air circulation has been
directly correlated with an increase in respiratory disease. The size
of the cage should be at least 24" x 24" x 18" high for the small and
medium sized breeds and 36" x 36" x 24" high for the large breeds. If
you are going to have your bunny roaming the house either all or most
of the time, make sure that you eliminate areas that your pet can get
wedged in or escape from. Also watch out for electrical cords which
they like to chew on, carpeting which they like to dig up and chew, and
any toxic materials such as rodent poisons that your pet could get
into. Get on your hands and knees and "bunny-proof" your home. (HRS
Note:Please avoid any wood shavings as litter materials, especially
cedar or pine shavings. Most shavings contain a natural toxin; bunnies
exposed to shavings over a long period can become ill. There are many
alternatives available on the market, such as organic Cat Country, Bird
Country, Alfacob, etc.)
*Litter Box* - Rabbits can be litter box trained relatively
easily. Initially you need to keep your pet in a small area, either a
cage or a blocked off section of the room and place a litter box in the
corner (try to pick the corner your pet has already used). Make sure
the sides are low enough for your pet to get in and out easily. It is
helpful to put some droppings in the box with the rabbit. You can
reward your pet with one of the treat foods listed previously whenver
he or she uses the box successfully. Do not punish your pet while in
the litter box. Do not worry if your pet sits for extended periods in
the litter box, this can be allowed, as long as the bunny isn't soiling
him or herself.
*Temperature* - Rabbits should be kept in the COOLEST and least
humid area of the house. A current study has shown that bunnies kept
in warm, humid environments with poor air circulation, had a dramatic
increased in the incidence of respiratory disease over those animals
kept in cool, dry environments with good air cirulation. Damp
basements are one of the worst areas to keep your pet. The optimum
temperature range for a bunny is 60-70 degrees. When the temperature
gets even in the mid-70's, we start to see an increase in drooling and
nasal discharge. If temperatures reach the upper-80's and beyond, and
especially if the humidity is high, the potential for a fatal heat
stroke is very real. On very hot days, when air conditioning is not
available it is helpful to leave a plastic milk jug filled with water
and frozen in the cage for a portable "air conditioner." Please keep
fresh, cool water available, as this will also help to keep the body
temperature down. If your pet should actually experience a heat stress
reaction, try holding an ice cube on the ear; you might also try gently
wetting your pet down with cool (not cold) water. If the heat stroke
is severe, veterinary attention may be necessary. If your bunny is kept
outdoors in either warm or cold weather, make sure that part of the
cage is sheltered from the wind and the sun. For the winter it is
advisable to use straw bedding in the sheltered area for insulation and
make sure that the water bowl is changed daily, as your pet can
dehydrate rapidly if the water is frozen for several days. (HRS Note:
we recommend not leaving your rabbit outdoors overnight. Predators,
such as raccoons and cats, can cause shock that can lead to death.)
MEDICAL PROBLEMS
*Females* - The leading cause of death in the female rabbit is a
cancer of the uterus called adenocarcinoma. This is a highly malignant
disease, and unfortunately, once it is diagnosed, it has usually spread
to other areas of the body. This cancer is preventible by having your
pet spayed between 6 months and 2 years of age. The spay procedure
involves removal of the bunny's uterus and ovaries. This procedure
will also help to prevent the occurrence of breast cancer later in
life.
*Males* - Some male bunnies, especially the dwarf varieties, may
become extrememly aggressive when they reach sexual maturity. There
may be excessive biting and spraying of urine outside of the regular
litter box area. The urine may develop a very strong and unpleasant
odor, due to the presence of male hormones. These little boys may not
groom themselves well, developing stained and messy tail areas. These
males may start attacking other rabbits, leading to serious bite
wounds. The best solution to these behavioral problems is castration
(surgical removal of the testicles). This procedure is recommended to
be done any time after 5 months of age.
*Overgrown Teeth* - Overgrown incisors (the front teeth) are
usually caused by a congenital defect. Other causes can be injury or
trauma to the roots of these teeth or overgrowth of the molars (the
back teeth). Rabbits' teeth grow constantly throughout their lives
and, if they are not lined up properly, they will not wear down; thus
they will over grow and cause mouth infections, ulcerations and an
inability to pick up and eat food. The most common treatment for these
overgrowths are to have the teeth cut periodically (anywhere from every
3 to 8 weeks). If the molars are involved, or if the animal is very
skittish, a general anesthetic may be required for the procedure. A
permanent cure for the overgrwon incisors is the removal of the
incisors entirely under a general anesthetic. Rabbits are able to eat
normally afterward and the teeth no longer have to be clipped. If your
pet has teeth problems, please discuss the options with your
verterinarian.
*Hairballs in the Stomach* - Rabbits have very fine hair that
tends to clump together in the stomach. They have a relatively slow
digestive tract compared to humans and material tends to stay there
longer (up to 3 days) which also contributes to the accumulation of
hair. When your bunny licks itself, it swallows hair (especially large
amounts during the spring and fall hair molt), which clumps together in
potentially larger and larger amounts. Rabbits do not have the ability
to vomit, so they cannot bring up the mass of hair. If enough hair
accumulates the animal will stop eating and stop producing stools.
Initially the stools may appear clumped together and then get small and
smaller until they stop altogether. Your pet will still appear active,
alert and lively for up to the first week of this condition. The
rabbit may still be eating, but don't be deceived by his lack of
depression, he has a serious disease condition and you should seek
medical attention IMMEDIATELY. If the problem is caught early, your
pet can be treated medically with a combination of force feedings,
hairball laxative products and enzyme products. Occasionally, surgery
is necessary to alleviate the problem (usually this is needed when the
condition has been allowed to progress to long). The best prevention
for hariballs is a diet high in fiber as described in this handout, and
daily brushing of the coat (especially during the normal hair molt
periods), with a wire "slicker"-type brush.
*Pasteurellosis* - The great majority of bunnies harbor a bacteria
in their sinuses called Pasteurella multocida. This bacteria doesn't
cause a problem in most bunnies with a healthy immune system. However,
under certain stress situations, such as poor diet, high environmental
temperatures, poor air circulation, overcrowding, moving, etc., this
bacteria can reproduce rapidly and cause potentially serious disease.
This bacteria may cause infections of the upper respiratory tract,
uterus, kidney, bladder, middle ear or lungs. Please have your pet
examined if you observe any discharges around the eyes, nose or anal
area, or if there is a loss of appetite, depression, diarrhea, head
tilt, loss of balance, or labored breathing. NEVER attempt to use
antibiotics without veterinary supervision. Your pet's
gastro-intestinal tract is an extremely delicate organ, dependent on
large populations of healthy bacteria to digest food. If antibiotics
are given indiscriminately, death may result from the lack of growth of
the normal bacteria and the overgrowth of the deadly bacteria. (HRS
Note: If your bunny starts sneezing, has a runny nose or any other
"cold" symptoms, contact a veterinarian immediately. Do NOT mistake
these symptoms for a common cold, as there is no such thing in a
rabbit. Also, please note that antibiotics in the penicillin family,
especially amoxicillin, can be fatal to your bunny.)
HANDLING
There are a number of ways to pick up your pet depending on how
calm he is and his size. The main thing to remember is to always
support the hind quarters to prevent serious spinal injuries. Rabbits'
backbones are fragile and can easily snap, if the hind legs are allowed
to dangle, with one strong kick. Unfortunately, these injuries are
usually permanent and frequently result in euthanasia; the best policy
is prevention. Never pick a bunny up by its sensitive ears; this is
very painful and unnecessary.
We would encourage you to call the clinic at (708) 344-8166 if you
have a question or problem. Above all, enjoy your pet, give him or her
your love and affection; they deserve it and will repay you with years
of enjoyment and the opportunity to see life at a slower, calmer,
"bunny pace."
Copyrighted by the Midwest Bird and Exotic Animal Hospital. This
document has been uploaded to Compuserve by permission of the Midwest
Bird and Exotic Animal Hospital.
source:http://netvet.wustl.edu/species/rabbits/rabtcare.txt
